Manila Zoo Revisited: The Good, The Bad, The Ugly, and Hopes for the Future

Maali, the 34-year old elephant, a gift from Sri Lanka.

Half of the people in our household have never seen an elephant before in their lives. We live a few blocks away from Manila Zoo, and each time we'd pass by it, I'd think to myself how unfortunate it is that our staff didn't capitalize on the proximity of the zoo.  So last month, we went on an excursion, with the kids and our household staff. That trip gave me much to think about. I saw a lot of things to reflect on: the good, the bad, the ugly, and the potentials for a better future.

Our tour group: Yaya Roli, Basti and Chie (carrying Narra),
Yaya Nene (carrying Guijo), and myself.

Let me start with the GOOD. Manila Zoo is very affordable. We paid 40 pesos for adults, and 20 pesos for children. A pricing strategy like this is laudable for its accessibility, making the zoo truly a people's park. The trees in the zoo are full-grown and shady, with extensive root networks and far-reaching branches - they offer the soothing sound of leaves rustling in the breeze. The zoo is an urban oasis, where free-roaming birds, not those in captivity, actually find a great space to thrive amidst the pollution and congestion of the mega city.  Underneath the layer of decay is an elegant layout - an intelligent "bone structure". You sense it, that there was much thought that went into the underlying grand design mapping out the zoo's  winding footpaths, elevated view decks, little bridges, and even a tiny little lake, with it's own tiny little island.  We marveled at the sheer size of animals like Maali the elephant, and Bertha the hippo. We valued the rare chance to see such awesome creatures live, in the flesh! Oh how my companions, kids and adults alike enjoyed our trip. Everyone seemed more relaxed after our visit. We got the breather we needed.

The lone hippopotamus Bertha, by her dipping pool.

That said, let's go to the BAD.  The more minor causes for complaint are the signs of neglect: the cracked concrete, chipped paint, worn out barriers, dirty water surfaces, and foul smell. Then there's the major concern over the condition of the animals. I felt sad for the wooly sheep baking under the sun on a small field with dried up grass. I imagine they should be in some colder clime, in green, green fields of New Zealand. One can always say, oh well, we're a third world country, we don't have the budget for improving the displays so that we can re-create the natural habitat of the animals. But the "lack of budget" argument is not enough justification. There is a conceptual impoverishment at play here, a lack of innovation and resourcefulness in re-imagining the zoo in a way that works with our Pinoy reality. There are serious ethical issues that need to be addressed: should we perpetuate the anthropocentric notion that nature exists for man's exploitation, and animal rights are secondary to human needs for recreation and education? I will go back to these points at the end of this post, but let me first talk about the UGLY.

Some of the zoo's patrons do UGLY things. I was so incensed! A group of adult men threw rocks at a sleeping tiger because they wanted to hear it growl. Oh gosh, I did not want my daughter to think that was ok, that it can be tolerated! I told the men off, "sino nag bato nun?!" (who threw that rock?), I hissed at them in my "angry teacher tone". I wasn't scared of the group of men, because I had my two babies with me, and like any other animal in the wild, I am at my fiercest when I am with my young and I feel they are in the presence of bad elements.  I felt mad at the situation, I felt angry for the poor tiger, a strong and awesome creature diminished to this, a helpless sitting duck people throw rocks on.  Then, next to that sad tiger, were the monkeys - oh my! They were eating chips out of foil bags, there they were, the popular brands: Piattos, V-Cut and Chippy. And as if that wasn't enough, they were drinking Zesto with a straw!  They were begging for junk food from the zoo patrons, and on the ground, at the base of the tree on which they perched, are more wrappers - garbage left uncollected - the zookeepers know this is going on, and they let it continue! This, I find to be an ugly situation.  These types of zoo-goers are the very people who need to be educated about ethical treatment of animals. 

So where do we go from here? There are two roads to take, one leads to shutting down the zoo - there is a group of people clamoring for it. Do I agree with them? Not really. I've been to good zoos that left me feeling awed and respectful of the animal kingdom. The other road, is to improve and change the zoo for the better - and this is the option I am hoping for.  There is a lot Manila Zoo can learn from Museo Pambata, an institution in Manila that I find very inspiring.  Museo Pambata re-imagined what a museum should be like, and redesigned the museum experience in a way that is uniquely Filipino. They created exhibits that addressed relevant concerns. When I go there, I feel proud to be Pinoy, I feel the wealth of talent behind the conceptualization and execution of the exhibits. They broke free from the typical conception of a museum as a quiet place full of untouchable treasures in glass cases and made their building sing with the music of children's laughter.  It's time the Manila Zoo's leaders returned to the drawing board to envision a new zoo philosophy, and create a different zoo-going experience that is uniquely our own.  They already have a lot going for them. They have supporters, fans and friends of the zoo who are willing to put in the work. They have this amazing location, a green oasis with mature, grown trees - that in itself is a treasure in a congested metropolis. 

The caged tiger.

Truth be told, I felt invigorated by the stroll through the park because I felt closer to nature. We were there at sundown, "agaw-dilim" we call it - that moment when the sky's "light of day" is being wrestled away by the "dark of night". It's supposed to be a magical moment. One of my companions, Chie, said the trees were "buhay", or alive. That is, they were inhabited by spirits, animated by elemental beings. Birds began to roost on the trees, in tune with the disappearing light, with a few caged birds of prey looking at us as we walked by. I carried my baby Guijo close to my body, and walked as fast as I could, with Narra in tow, because I felt scared - the kind of fear that comes from being raised to respect the spirit world. It felt like it was time to go home and leave the park and it's inhabitants undisturbed. My overactive imagination saw more than just birds. In my mind's eye, I saw Manila's original "residents", those who were here way before the city overtook the land.  

I was happy to feel such presence - the kind I feel only when I am in a forest, or in holy places like Mt. Banahaw.  This place is alive. And that's a very good sign. Nature thrives here. It is a special place that we need to treasure.  This can be a uniquely Filipino zoo, where our myths and legends, and folk beliefs are woven into the tales we tell about the animals we see. This can be a Filipinized zoo showcasing our diverse fauna, highlighting those species endemic to our terrain and climate so we don't unnecessarily torture animals with anatomies that are made for drastically different contexts.  This zoo can be our peek into the animal kingdom using a distinctly Pinoy lens.  We can probably do with less animals too, that are cared for more - quality instead of quantity - I didn't think we needed as many tigers, or as many monkeys of the same species crowding the same tree. 

I saw the good, the bad, the ugly, and the potentials for a different - and better future for Manila Zoo. For most of my companions, they saw the beauty of this place. My yaya Nene wants to go back there on her day-off, even alone! because she found it so enriching.  Chie too, confessed she didn't have any interest in the zoo until we went there. "Maganda pala" (it's beautiful after all) she said later. And of course, there's the kids. They were thrilled with the animals, and the play ground!  I am glad I went with them. Their enthusiasm was infectious. I was pretty jaded and ambivalent about taking my kids to the zoo, my mind was cluttered with ethical debates and issues, but after our visit, and with help from my companions, I too, saw the beauty of Manila Zoo and allowed myself to enjoy it for the diamond in the rough that it is. We can chisel away at it, with all our criticisms, in the hopes that by doing so, we produce a sparkling gem in years to come.