Daytrip to Minalungao National Park and Thoughts on Traveling With My Husband

Minalungao's clear river.

When I mentioned to my father that our travel group was going off to his home province of Nueva Ecija to visit Minalungao National Park, his face softened with the glow of nostalgia.  "I took my siblings there - it was our first outing together" he said. It was some forty years ago when as a young military officer, he visited home and took his younger brothers and sister out on a field trip, riding his military jeep.  The road was rough, the ride was bumpy, the destination was worth it.  He described the water as being so clean and so clear you could see the rocks on the river bed beneath.  From the water, you look up and you are surrounded by mountains on both sides. "I don't know if it's still the same, but it was pristine when I saw it", said he.  Then I visited Minalungao with my travel group a few weekends ago, and I was so happy to return to my father with the encouraging news, that the Minalungao I saw, looks exactly as he had described, that forty years hadn't ruined its natural beauty - (and neither had these forty years in between improved the condition of the roads).

Small sign along the national road, in Papaya, Nueva Ecija.

To get to Minalungao, we left our house at 6 am, and met with our travel buddies for a quick breakfast at NLEX.  We bought sandwiches and water to take with us on our hike.  From there, we headed out to Nueva Ecjia, passing through towns that were very familiar (for me) - Gapan, San Leonardo, Penaranda, Papaya... I was getting excited! This area was where I did my field work for my PhD Dissertation research a decade ago!!  I used to watch local troupes perform traditional theater out on the rice fields!  We passed by Sinasajan, the very barrio I studied and documented!  My heart was pounding - who knew these plains characterized by a vast expanse of rice fields could conceal a river that runs between mountains???  The image does not make sense!!!  A small sign simply stated "This way to Minalungao National Park" - there was no fanfare, no usual indications that one had arrived at a tourist destination.  Down a small road we went, which wasn't a bad ride for the most part, except at memorable spots where the road was visibly broken and we had to hold our breath as our vehicle carefully crossed over cracked concrete, loose dirt, and makeshift road replacements composed of odd-sized rocks (did I fail to mention these cracked parts of the road tend to be near ditches, and there was the real danger of falling?).   I would advice against using a sedan, or even a van; an SUV or a pick-up truck would be more appropriate.  We were in an SUV and even then, I felt my heart constricting as I heard and felt the road shift under our tires.  Don't get me wrong, it's not as dramatic as it sounds.  It's a brief moment; a bump in the road; we got over it, fast. We reached a clearing at the end of the road, and were stopped by locals who charged us an entrance fee of 20 pesos per head.  We parked under the shade of two trees, and left our stuff in our locked cars.  There were rest rooms in a building located uphill - it didn't have much: no lights, no working water, no tiles on the walls - the kind that has a bare ceramic bowl, with no flushing mechanism - it was the typical toilet one finds in far flung areas.  We knew we won't be showering after our swim in the river. 

Our travel group, at the "parking lot" of Minalungao National Park.

There were 2 ways to enjoy the national park: by hiring a balsa (a floating bamboo raft with a built-in table, fixed benches, and a straw roof) and riding on it up and down the river, or by hiking/climbing over the rocks beside the water, and crossing a makeshift bamboo bridge to explore a small cave on the mountain; or, in our case, we did both.  We arrived in Minalungao a little past 10 am.  We did a bit of hiking, for about an hour or so, then we took a rest in the shade, on some rocks by the river, dipping our feet in the cool, clear water.  Two members of our group, who were both able swimmers, jumped into the river and swam back to where our cars were parked.  They were tasked to fetch our packed lunch, and to hire a balsa.  They came back a little before noon.  The balsa was brought close to the rocks, and we stepped onto it.  We moved the balsa to a shallow, shaded section of the river where the water was just knee-deep.  I didn't sit on the bamboo bench of the balsa at all because there were tiny insects and fierce ants - territorial residents of the balsa - they had a mean bite! I ate my sandwich quickly, and went into the water where I stayed most of the time.  The others didn't seem to mind the pesky little creatures, and they lounged around on the bamboo raft, relaxing, and catching up.  There wasn't much else to do - it was a simple trip - we trekked, had lunch, lounged around, then headed back. Minalungao is good for a quick day trip.  Some groups stay overnight by camping in the clearing, but I personally think a few hours is sufficient.  We spent 3 to 4 hours to get there; we stayed from 10:30 am to 3:30 pm, then headed back to Manila, stopping in Clark, Pampanga for dinner. 

The strong swimmers in our group (Avery and Aiel), swam back to our car to grab our
lunch and hire a balsa. 

It would have been perfect if we had a cooler full of beer to accompany our post-lunch lounging on our balsa. But we didn't. Sad. So since I didn't want to sit in the balsa, I asked our guide, a 14-year old local named AJ, to accompany me and help me climb up this rock that stood right smack in the middle of the river.  We had to walk in knee deep water, against the current, which wasn't that easy for me, because the current was strong,  and the riverbed was rocky.  AJ showed me how to climb to the top, but I only made it halfway, then I turned away from the rock, faced the river and jumped in.  I felt afraid to jump because the water was shallow, but I found myself encouraged by the young boys who started showing off by jumping off from higher points.  They were even doing fancy tricks - back flips!  Oh to be young and fearless like them! I missed my days doing gymnastics!  One thing I did enjoy about Minalungao is the way it made me want to climb!  There were many opportunities for the beginner rock climber because there was an abundance of footholds available.  In some spots, it seemed to me as though mother nature carved out stairs, or ladders, designed specifically for my climbing pleasure!  The rocks called out to me, I could see clear paths, obvious places to put my hands and feet - I felt a warm welcome from the mountain, as though it was leading me to come closer.   I just wanted to keep climbing up, and up, and up!  

Climbing up Minalungao's inviting rocks :-D

"Parang nakawala yang asawa mo", the group teased my husband, Oliver.   "Isama mo nga parati" said one of his travel buddies.  I didn't realize it was my first time to join Oliver's travel group - I've known them for a decade now, and he's traveled regularly with them in the last ten years, but I never joined - not until now!  There were many reasons: I was away overseas doing my Ph.D. in Singapore for a good 4 years; then after we got married, I was either pregnant, or recovering from childbirth each time they had a trip scheduled.  And... those other times I was physically present and able to join, I chose not to go, because I always felt that I wanted Oliver to have the space to get away from me (hahaha). I felt that traveling with his buddies will allow him the opportunity to vent about our marriage... or rave about it!  Truth is, it was always after a great trip with this travel group of his, that he decided to take our relationship to the next stage.  It was after a trip to Sagada that we started dating; it was a after a pivotal trip to Batanes, that he decided to propose; and I found out in Minalungao, that it was during a trip to Palawan that he first told them he was seriously contemplating building a life with me.  Time away has always been good for our relationship.  So I wanted to keep it that way - that he travels with his good friends, without me. 

Oliver's perfect spot. It was a solid, comfy rock to lounge on.

I didn't want to join him on these trips because I loved seeing him come back home - I loved the rituals involved - of him telling me where they went, what they did, the jokes and the mishaps. I loved the storytelling that followed our time apart. He always goes away on business trips - but that kind of traveling just makes him tired.  But when he travels to explore, and to spend time with his friends - he comes back a better man. Happier. Wiser. In Minalungao, I saw my husband resting on a beautiful rock,  perfectly curved.  He lay on it looking as though he was resting on the very palm of God.  He was staring at the sky, and the towering trees provided him with a comforting shade.  I took a snapshot, he saw me, and beckoned me to join him. I almost didn't want to. But I did. And I gave the rock a try. It was very comfortable indeed.  And in that moment, I felt very, very married.  I felt everything a marriage takes away, and gives back in return. I felt the solitude that's lost, the companionship that's gained;  the mystery that disappears, and the predictability that settles in; I also felt the stability of staying put - at the price of freedom; I thought of all the trips I've done in my youth, and how little traveling I do now. I felt parts of my being have died, and the nomad in me no longer moves.  I thought of a great big, solid rock, unmoving;...and why the wise man builds his house on it. 

I spent the day rock climbing in Minalungao, with my husband and good old travel friends.  And I came home late at night, tired and yucky from not having showered, but I felt better. Refreshed. And more happily married to Oliver, my rock.