Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Our Sumilon Island Escapade

A photo of the poster for Sumilon Bluewater Resort taken at Sumilon's Port

This weekend, we had an exquisite experience in Sumilon island, off the southern coast of Cebu. Our objective was to see whale sharks in nearby Oslob. But Sumilon itself, had so much to offer, that seeing the whales ended up being a cherry on top of the sundae, a bonus of sorts.  Even before we boarded our ride to ferry us from Oslob to Sumilon, the walk on the jetty was already a feast for the senses. There were varying hues of blue, deepening with every step from shore to boat. On the boat we were lulled and rocked by wind and waves.  The 3-hour scenic drive to Oslob, and the 15-minute ferry to Sumilon gave me enough time to reminisce about childhood trips to various islands.

On the jetty to board the ferry to Sumilon island

I grew up traveling with my father who was a pilot for the Philippine Navy. Yes, a pilot - in the navy. He knows the air, he knows the sea, and knows the Philippine islands intimately. My dad had a bird's eye view of this country, and used nautical maps for navigation, reading the hues of the water as "land"marks. How I loved traveling with him because he was a good storyteller with many tales to tell. He explained to me the famous Filipino saying "Ang di marunong lumingon sa pinanggalingan ay di makararating sa pupuntahan" (One who does not look back to his origins will not reach his destination) from the perspective of a boatman. Navigating the sea relies a lot on reference points.  Without these points of reference, it is easy to get lost. It is no surprise an archipelago like ours, with 7,000 plus islands, would have a proverb like this.


Sumilon island, appearing on the horizon.

Every time I ride a pump boat, I think of my dad, and the many trips we took around the Philippines. In the 1980's to early 1990's he took us to Puerto Galera, Cebu, Palawan, Zamboanga, and even Boracay - long before it was developed.  I've seen my fair share of resorts - from the cheap and simple - to the fine and pricey. And I am happy to report that development does not necessarily result in the destruction of a tourist spot.  Diving spots have become sustainable marine sanctuaries where fragile ecosystems manage to survive.  Sumilon island is one such marine sanctuary. Right in front of our room was a beach, and Oliver and I were walking by casually, when a school of parrot fish appeared in the water. Before that, a sea turtle with a lovely orange shell kept us company as we took a stroll. It swam in the shallow waters below our trail. Wow!

Oliver couldn't help but climb a tree that juts out to the sea.
Then there was the amazing flora.  There were trees reaching over the water, with their roots embedded  in the cliffs.  There was a natural lagoon with a mangrove forest, and Oliver and I took a kayak and paddled our way around the roots and vines, all the while marveling at these wonderful trees that reside between soil and sea.  It was a weird feeling kayaking in that mangrove lagoon - it was exciting and relaxing at the same time... energizing to the spirit, but sleep-inducing to the body! It must be the meditative feel of repetitive gentle paddling, or the hypnotic effect of ripples on the calm water surface. The sounds of nature also added to my deepening relaxation, the chirping birds, rustling of leaves, the sound of waves in the distance. Sighhhhhh! What a pleasant way to get a work-out.


Kayaking in the island's natural lagoon and mangrove forest.

After kayaking, we made our way back to our room, and we had a nice, round outdoor Dedon chair that's perfect for lounging, and an inviting hammock with cheerful throw pillows. It was time for an afternoon nap. What a dilemma. How can we sleep when there's so much more to explore? 

Our room's additional amenities: a hammock, and lounge chair.

While my hardworking husband took a well-deserved break, I ended up attending a unique prayer service as he slept. A priest was ferried in from the mainland so he can celebrate anticipated Sunday mass for the staff of the resort. The mass was held at 4 pm (quite early for an anticipated mass) because the priest had to be brought back before sundown. Besides, the mass was held in a forest, and it wouldn't be good  to still be in the woods by nightfall. It was a unique experience, attending mass held in a clearing by a cave. The mass was delivered in alternating English and Cebuano, and for my benefit, a bit of Tagalog too.  It was a beautiful experience for me - it gave me an excuse to sing in the forest. I sat in front of a tree trunk, and my position gave me an excuse to hug a tree as well. It's one mass for the books! Alex, our travel companion who took the pic below (thanks Alex), said we looked like a cult. Thoughts of Mount Banahaw come to mind.

Anticipated mass by the cave in the woods. (Photo by Alex Paglinawan)
The next day, Sunday, we woke up early to explore more of the island. There were trails to trek. One path skirted the cliffs above the beach, the other cut across the wooded interior.  Walking along the cliff trail, we saw a rickety wooden ladder leading to a secluded strip of white beach.   

A ladder from the cliff side leads to a secluded beach.

On the northern side of the island lie two structures of interest: a lighthouse, and an old baluarte or watch tower from Spanish times. I indulged my inner kid and climbed up the tower, executing  a favorite photo pose from childhood, an arabesque, halfway up. Sadly, I did not climb to the top. I feel if this had been ten years ago, when I was more physically fit and fearless, I would have climbed to the top with camera in tow. Motherhood has made me more conservative though. I am no longer inclined to take unnecessary risks with a toddler and an infant waiting at home.

The lighthouse on the northern part of the island.

The old baluarte next to the lighthouse is in ruins. Trees and vines have overtaken the stone structure - destroying it and preserving it at the same - pretty much like the many stone temples in Angkor Wat. The watch tower was part of an elaborate early warning system devised by the Spanish to alert coastal towns so they can prepare for the arrival of Moro slave raiders who came in full force.     

Oliver in the baluarte/watch tower from Spanish times.

We had to end our hike around the island in order to catch our dive boat which brought us to the feeding area for whale sharks.  Originally, Sumilon was just a means to an end. A place to stay as we pursued our main objective, of seeing whale sharks. We were considering staying elsewhere. Our travel friends Alex and Jay suggested we join them in Sumilon and what a brilliant idea that was! Sumilon is an end in itself, an island not without merit. I got to sing in a forest, hear mass by a cave, climb a lighthouse, inspect a watch tower, kayak in a lagoon with a mangrove forest, hike on a cliff by the beach, sleep on a hammock, snorkel right in front of my bedroom! I am completely recharged and ready to return with vigor to my routines with my children. Traveling is such a great thing. More often than not, we return home, better people than when we left.


Sumilon Bluewater Resort's Website:



1 comment:

  1. I grew up traveling with my father who was a pilot for the Philippine Navy. Yes, a pilot - in the navy. He knows the air, he knows the sea, and knows the Philippine islands intimately. readymade salwar suit wholesale , wholesale salwar suit ,

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